Turns out I love New York. I spent the last 6 days here and every day was great even though I went to different places and did different things. The first two days I exclusively stayed in Brooklyn (with the exception of the airport). The last 4 I’ve been in manhattan and the other islands and a little time in Brooklyn at the end of the day.
Did I write about yesterday?
Yesterday I took the subway up to MOMA and it was a great museum. Again, you see paintings that are famous, and they look like the painting you know. But Klimt, Kahlo, Dali, Monet, Van Gogh, all the modern famous people! It was a treat for the eyes, and I rushed through in a couple hours so that I didn’t have to worry about the play.
I suppose I was also a little museumed out by that point, but all the art that looked cool, I stopped to admire, including one room where the artist lady took photos of people sleeping in her bed. It said she got the idea because she got sick of following people around all day… the line between art and crime is thin.
One thing I didn’t quite realize was how small some of these famous paintings are… Frida made really small works of art. I had no idea.
Other modern art stuff just looks like hey I needed to fill some space. And it’s easy to walk by, because I don’t get the symbolic meaning, and I don’t care to in the moment.
Anyway I got out early and had plenty of time to meander my way to broadway, stopped at the cathedral and another church, stopped at Rockefeller center (building?) whatever it’s called, stopped at time square- ran away because it was too overwhelming, came back later. Did a bunch of stuff and ran around smiling and taking pictures and generally enjoying New York. Then I went to see the Buena Vista Social Club on broadway and it was amazing! Great music and dancing, great story. Just loved every minute of it. Then I talked to my mom on the phone because she likes to live vicariously through my travels and she has basically been calling me everyday to hear about it (which is really nice). Also she really loves New York, and told me tonight she would have been really disappointed if I didn’t also. But I do… and we talked for over an hour several days about how great it is here.
Then I went to madam toussads (sp?) and goofed my way through it. Would have been better with someone else but was still silly. Also they had a 4d “ride” with jumanji and I was glad I’d seen the movie (the new one) it was really fun.
Then I walked down to Bryant park which I fucking loved!!!! And grand central and then out to the UN building which had its flags down so it didn’t seem so great. A Tibet protest outside and a ceremony? I made my way back to Brooklyn.
Today. I started at the Empire State Building - which means nothing because from the street you can’t see shit. So I went south towards a park, and then decided to go to Chelsea and as I got further away the view of the Empire State Building got better and better. I stopped outside the vessel, and then did the high line through Chelsea to the Chelsea market… both super cool. The high line might be even better if I knew anything about plants or gardening but I loved the views and the weird voyeurism aspect of being basically next to people’s lives while walking above ground… hard to explain, or would take more words… they have giant windows and outdoor patios that basically are 10-15 feet away from the path?
Chelsea market kind of reminder me of every market made inside an old warehouse or whatever that has been made the hip cool place. But it was also fun.
From there I went south and got pizza at one of the best rated places. Which was good. I hope New York can forgive me, but I like punch pizza better… I mean it was great, but was it better than Neapolitan?
Then I went to Stonewall, which the memorial itself was nothing, but the little tourist center small though it was, was really nice. Just like a fun cute safe space, they keep it super positive in there. But there is a section where they have all these journals and little prompts and they ask people to write.. and it made me cry a lot. Made me realize I’m so grateful to be alive and to be less ashamed and less scared than I was growing up. the world has gotten a little better… we gotta keep fighting. I said thanks to the people and cried as I left. I made sure to add to one of the journals just to acknowledge I am alive and it is good.
From there I walked to Washington square park which was another really cool park. I sat and people watched and listened to a jazz trio for 45 minutes or something. It was the most chill part of my whole trip,,, it’s been hard to sit still there is so much to to see and do. Eventually I decided I did want to make it to the tenement museum eventually, so I meandered my way through the east village which was way cooler than the west village(so posh), and then into the lower east side for the tenement museum. I didn’t realize they had said it up as specific families for specific time periods and I kind of missed the window on the 1800s family’s from Ireland, so I did one that sounded cool. A family in the 1950s with parents who survived the holocaust and a family from Puerto Rico in the 60s who were part of the wave of people who came over and eventually became 1/10 of the population of the nyc. The museum is set up in the buildings (some of the exact apartments) as the families that lived there, and basically they have recreated the furnishings and just tell you stories about the people and from their perspective (if they left it). The families I saw are still alive, so they shared little audio/video recordings from them as well as talking about how they have come to the museum and brought their children to see where they grew up.
It was really more interesting and moving than I thought it would be and also super weird. I kept thinking, what would it be like if they asked me to recreate one of the apartments I grew up in… it’s really no different except you realized literally multiple dozens of families have lived in these apartments since the mid 1800s or wheneve the building was built. A difference between the original and the era I saw was that the apartments were redone and expanded considerably, so like double the size of the families in the 1800s and early 1900s. But the paint jobs are terribly thick (so many layers), and the floors are all uneven, and things are slanted, and you can tell it was home… but also not the nicest home.
They said at one point, the lower east side was the most densely populated area on the planet with 2-3k people living in each block. I asked about the demographics now… they said mostly young professionals paying 3500 a month for rent. I’ve seen some apartments in New York that were way smaller…but you also recognize this is like 100 years of built up chemicals and toxic shit.
Oh they also mentioned a funny feature of tenement life, they had air ventilation in the middle of the building, so you might have windows that faced other peoples windows and they called them handshake neighbors or something, where literally you meet your neighbor by tapping on their window 2 feet away. Apparently it helped the kids make friends.
After that I went north into the east village again to see if I could notice anything different about alphabet city (from rent)… on the whole the east side is rougher, more vibrant, more “urban” like more graffiti and murals and stuff. I didn’t feel unsafe or anything, just recognized it wasn’t posh. But that specific area didn’t look much different from parts of Brooklyn.
I guess I saw more black people in that neighborhood than in others… on the whole, I’m sort of shocked that it doesn’t feel very black? I dunno how to say that, but like it feels like an international city. People from everywhere, all different races and nationalities and ethnicities and languages. So black Americans don’t stand out as being a significant portion of the population in any of the areas I’ve seen which is surprising. I did not go to Harlem and I do wonder if queens or the Bronx might be different.
After going up there I headed south again, strolled into little Italy, was shocked how Chinatown still feels like a Chinatown. I dunno, those two neighborhoods are weird. I assume the Italians don’t live there in the same way the Chinese do. Little Italy seems like a tourist few blocks, China town seems like a place people live. Except I didn’t see any Chinese markets - maybe they are hidden. That would be the major exception and it was significant. I mean even on eat street you’ve got Asian markets. Where is all the dried fish? And other stuff?
Maybe I am just lot privy to that. Anyway… I got some amazing lo mein. Then walked down to the subway at Fulton and saw east lower manhattan which has way more life than the west side. I came back to Brooklyn and got some icecream and walked a bit to say goodbye.
I’m kind of sad to leave. This has been an amazing trip in an amazing place.
I commented to my friend and my mom, the thing that is bumming me out the most is that I’m gonna miss seeing people. It’s just different here. The density of people is sooooo vibrant and amazing. You can’t go ten feet without seeing people. I know I’m gonna miss that feeling. Sure they are in the way, and annoying and all that… but it’s just the feeling of being surrounded by people on every direction. It fills you with energy.
Mn is dead in comparison. Even at our best we got like 3% of what nyc does. It makes it clear how easy it is to call us a flyover state. If you were from here. Almost everywhere in the world has nothing on your home. I could imagine people leave from here and they are excited to get back, whereas I am like… maybe I’ll just miss my flight accidentally.
There is probably more to say. But when I get back and I’m hit by the wall of emptiness and quiet and the lack of vibrancy I’ll try to think about r writing down more. NYC is amaze balls.